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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.